Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Hot and Beautiful Smith Rock



Brian Mosbaugh photo

As September arrived my foot was feeling fully healed. I could pretty much climb anything without discomfort. The weather in Squamish seemed to be getting better and better. The only problem was that I was having trouble finding people to climb with and after spending over two months in Canada I was ready to get back to freedom land. Smith Rock was an area I’d always wanted to check out. My friends that had been there were always raving about it, and the huge role it played in the history of American rock climbing added to my desire to go. On top of that, my good friend Scott Bennett was psyched to meet me out there to climb.

Scott takes it all in on the onsight solo of Zebra Zion
Brian Mosbaugh photo

The weather report showed the temperatures to be In the mid 90’s which wasn’t at all ideal, but I figured we could climb in the shade and still have a good time. I packed up the Civic and headed back to the U.S.A. Shortly after my arrival at Smith I realized two things; Climbing anything hard in the mid 90’s is nearly impossible even in the shade(or at night), and the ratings at Smith are no joke. The climbing there is HARD! I got my ass handed to me during my entire visit. Basically I can climb a number grade lower at Smith then I can at other areas.  It was an amazing learning experience I’ll never forget. Towards the end of my two weeks there the weather cooled off and Scott and I got in some really good climbing. We climbed everyday and our finger tips got totally thrashed on the unforgiving Volcanic Tuff.

A 13b called Aggro Monkey
Brian Mosbaugh photo

Some highlight sends include The Backbone, The Quickening, Chain reaction (harder then any 13a I’d ever done), Full Heinous and the Monkey Face Speed record via the Pioneer Route at 3 minutes and 25 seconds, beating the previous record holder Mason Earle by six seconds. After two weeks of climbing at Smith rock, my fingertips were totally thrashed. The weather report showed another heat wave rolling in so I decided to pack up and leave. It was time to head back to where I started. Back home, back to where the Granite walls are always calling my name. Back to YOSMIETE VALLEY!


The Backbone
Brian Mosbaugh photo

The Backbone
Brian Mosbaugh photo
On top of the Monkey face on a hot day
Brian Mosbaugh photo
 Scott and I soloing Zebra Zion 
Brian Mosbaugh photo
The upper exposed section of the Backbone
Brian Mosbaugh photo

A big thanks to Brain Mosbaugh for taking all these awsome photos!

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