Sunday, January 20, 2013


Just thought I’d check in with the whole blog thing since it’s been a while. The mega road trip I had planned all last year ended up being not so mega as I’d hoped. The Hulk was great and I spent a month in Squamish that turned out so so. I sent a sick trad line called Lake of Fire that I’m super proud of, but after that the weather got kind of bad and I had trouble finding people to climb with. I ended up doing a lot of soloing and bouldering while I was waiting for more friends to show up. I went out bouldering one day toward the end of July and missed the pad on this high ball called Teenage Lobotomy. My foot immediately swelled to the size of a foot ball. It hurt like hell and I knew without question that it was broken. It was clear that this bouldering injury was a bit more serious than the one the previous year on Midnight Lightning. The road trip was over. I would have to spend the next few months recovering back in Socal. A big thanks to my sister Jill for flying up to Vancouver to pick me up and drive me all the way back home to Cali.  I don’t think she was psyched about two and a half days of driving across the whole western U.S in the middle of summer in a small 94 civic without air conditioning. Neither was I for that matter. Also a big thanks to my parents for giving me a place to live for three months while I was in a cast healing.
 A video of someone sending Teenage Lobotomy...

By the end of September I was slowly starting to climb again. I decided to leave California in October and head to Indian Creek to finish up the rest of my trip. There’s not much to tell as far as hard sending goes but the three weeks I spent in the Moab dessert was just what I needed. My ankle still hurt to walk on and jamming my foot in cracks was anything but comfortable, but it’s impossible to be depressed in the calm aesthetic atmosphere of that place. By the end of October I left Utah and headed to Boulder CO. Since then I’ve been working for my buddy Jesse Huey hanging Christmas lights in all the suburbs around Boulder and Denver. My ankle has healed to about 90% and I’m just now starting to climb harder more serious stuff. It wasn’t too much effort regaining my physical strength. I’m almost at the fitness I was at before the injury. However, getting my mental strength back up is proving to be rather challenging. I’m not nearly as bold and sure of myself as I was this time last year. Hopefully by the time May rolls around I’ll have eliminated all the irrational fear I’m currently experiencing on the rock.

The past month has been extremely cold on the Front Range and I haven’t gotten outside climbing too much.  Ian Cavanaugh and I have gotten out a couple times to try the famous Eldo testpiece To RP or Not to Be. An X rated Derek Hersey face route. The climbing is spectacular and the rock is just about perfect. However, there’s only a few spots for thin wires that I don’t think would hold a fall. If it were bolted it would be one of the most traveled 12a face routes in all of Eldo. I cant say for sure but I think the route has only seen two repeats since the first assent back in 87.  Neither Ian or I have yet summoned the courage to lead it yet. I think I’ll be well on my way back to mental recovery after I’ve head pointed the route.

I plan to stay in Boulder for another three months to train and save up money. Then I hope to start a new road trip. I’d like to go back to the Black Canyon for a day or two and then head out to Yosemite Valley to spend the rest of the Spring. I’m not totally sure what I want to do with the summer. I’d like to go back to Canada and then maybe check out the climbing up in the Sawtooths in Idaho. In any case the main climbing goal for this next road trip is to….Stay uninjured!!!

Have a good Spring! Here’s an interesting video of Legendary Johnny Dawes and John Redhead considering the lead on the famous E9 testpiece, Indian Face. It gets me psyched for my personal inevitable future headpoint…

1 comment:

  1. Good post, I'm almost done with the recovery from my first broken ankle. It's inspiring to know that people get back on the rock as soon as you did after healing.